Good Values from the Côte Chalonnaise
To the south of the Côte de Beaune region of Burgundy in France lies the appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise. This is the much-unknown and overlooked part of Burgundy. Vines are the principal crop of the region; most of the vines are planted with pinot noir and chardonnay, but also some gamay and Aligoté.
The wines of this region have greatly increased in quality since the 1980s. They are somewhat similar to those of the Côte d’Or region, both areas primarily growing chardonnay and pinot noir, in similar limestone soil. The Côte Chalonnaise wines are typically more drinkable at an earlier age, have less complexity, and cost considerably less. So, at a time when Burgundy wines prices are very high, the wines from the Côte Chalonnaise are good values.
There are five appellations of the Côte Chalonnaise: Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.
Bouzeron is the northernmost appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise. This region produces both white and red wines, often labeled as Bourgogne Rouge or Bourgogne Blanc. Bouzeron is very devoted to making wines from Aligoté. Aligoté is an almost forgotten varietal grown in Burgundy. At times, Aligoté wines can be very green, simple and acidic. These wines are typically used to make kir. However, some of the best Aligoté comes from Bouzeron. This region has the right climate and subsoil to produce very elegant pretty wines.
Denis Carré was not born into a wine family; his interest in wine came while harvesting grapes as a teenager. In 1975, he took his savings and rented a parcel of vines. He worked in a garage at night and tended to the vines during the day. In the late 1970s, he built a small winery. Now Denis and his wife Bernadette own 13 hectares (units equal to 2.471 acres) in eight appellations, joined by their son Martial and daughter Gaetane.
Domaine Carré Bourgogne Aligoté
This is a beautiful, fresh and well-balanced wine, with notes of citrus, apple and mineral, it has a crisp, clean finish. Pair this wine with pasta, fish, shellfish, mild and soft cheese.
The next appellation of the Côte Chalonnaise is Rully. The majority of the wine grown in this region is white. The limestone and clay soil of this area make it an ideal place to grow chardonnay. These can be full-bodied, unctuous wines. The red wines are made from pinot noir, usually very elegant, soft and accessible.
Domaine Jacqueson is owned by a Welsh family that was gifted land in the mid-1700s. In 1947, Henri Jacqueson planted the first vines. Henri became known for revitalizing the area of Rully. Now in his 80s, Henry’s son, Paul, and granddaughter, Marie, run the winery. The domaine is run with meticulous care and attention to detail; it is one of the few vineyards in Rully that continues to handpick. These are excellent wines that are found in many Michelin-starred restaurants not only in France but worldwide.
Domaine Jacqueson Rully Er Cru Preaux Rouge
This beautiful pinot noir has intense aromas of red fruit and floral scents. A delicious, very drinkable red, with a hint of spice and dark cherry fruit. The winery practices organic farming.
Another fantastic winery in the Rully region is Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial. The immensely talented Vincent Dureuil is only in his mid-30s. His family has been in Rully since the 1500s. His tireless work in the vineyards makes for some of the most incredible values in all of Burgundy. The vineyard is certified organic – he never uses chemical pesticides or herbicides of any kind in his vineyards.
DOMAINE VINCENT DUREUIL-JANTHIAL RULLY BLANC 1ER CRU CHAPITRE
This wine has aromas of peaches, stone fruit and honey. It is full-bodied, succulent, with great texture and purity.
The most widely recognized area of the Côte Chalonnaise is Mercurey. Mercurey produces more wine than all the other appellations. Eighty percent of the region is planted to red, predominantly made from pinot noir. It also produces some stunning, beautifully structured chardonnays.
Domaine Francois Raquillet has been passed down through 11 generations, and is considered one of the top estates in Mercurey. Today it is run by Francois Racquillet, who took over the winery in 1990. Francois is making wines with deep levels of complexity.
DOMAIN FRANCOIS RAQUILLET MERCUREY BLANC 1ER CRU LES VELEYS
This wine has a clear, bright nose of vanilla, butter and oak. It is clean and bright with great acidity and minerality, and a long, nutty finish.
Givry is located in the heart of the Côte Chalonnaise. Givry is famous for being the preferred wine of King Henry IV in the late 1500s. In the 1800s, phylloxera (plant lice) hit the appellation, and the area was very slow to recover. Domaine Joblot led the way to the resurgence of the area. Today, this estate is run by Juliette Joblot. Juliette’s wines are plush, spicy, and charming. They drink well and also age well. For the past decades, Joblot has highlighted just how impressive Givry can be.
DOMAINE JOBLOT GIVRY 1ER CRU CLOS DE LA SERVOISINE
This beautiful Pinot Noir has alluring notes of wild berries, blackberries and warm spice. It is full-bodied and richly tannic, with promising depth and dimension. The Joblot wines are very limited.
At the south of the Côte Chalonnaise is Montagny, an area completely devoted to white wine and noted for its acidity and body. The limestone soil found in Montagny is similar to that in Chablis, resulting in wines with mineral and slight flinty notes.
MAISON CHARTRON ET TREBUCHET
The Maison Chartron et Trebuchet specializes in producing great white Burgundy wines. The juice of this wine is fresh and lively, with flavors of white peach and ripe pear. It is rich, refined and delicate, full of fruit, with beautiful lingering flavors. This wine can be paired with shellfish, oysters, grilled or fried fish, or fish prepared with sauce.
Many of the wines I have mentioned are referred to as 1ER cru. In France, the vineyards are classified according to the vineyards regarded as having the finest terroir in that area. Grand Cru is the highest classification in Burgundy. The Côte Chalonnaise region has no Grand Cru-level wines. The wines labeled as 1ER or premier cru note the finest sites in the region.
Please drink responsibly!