Green & Clean Wines

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The importance of organic farming and production remains high in the wine industry.

With the knowledge that customers are more informed than ever and more inclined to purchase green and clean products, it is important to understand the differences in how grapes are farmed and produced. The rules for organic and biodynamic certification are very strict, and there are many wineries that practice responsible farming but choose not to get certification. Certification is costly and needs to been done every year.

ORGANIC: In an organically farmed vineyard, grapes are grown without the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, or other artificial agents. To earn and maintain certification, winegrowers must have an organic-systems plan in place for several years (at least three straight years, depending on the certifying body) and records that verify compliance with that plan on an ongoing basis. Certifying organizations include but are not limited to USDA Organic, EcoCert, AgriBio, and ICEA.

BIODYNAMIC: This is an ecological and holistic approach to farming that sees the farm as a living organism made up of interdependent elements such as plants, animals, soils, and people — all of which make up the “spirit” of a place. Biodynamic winegrowing uses only organic, usually locally sourced, materials including biodynamic “tea” preparations made up of mineral, plant, or animal manure extracts (often fermented) that are applied to compost, manures, the soil, or directly on the plants to balance and fortify the ecosystem. All actions in the vineyard and cellar are done in accordance with the lunar calendar. Demeter is the trademarked biodynamic certifying organization. Biodyvin is also a recognized group within the community of biodynamic winegrowers.

NATURAL: Farmed without the use of synthetic chemicals in the vineyards and made with little intervention in the cellar. Natural wines undergo spontaneous fermentation, are vinified and aged with no additives, (except maybe a touch of sulfur), and there is no fining or sterile filtration. If sulfur is added at the time of bottling, total sulfur readings do not exceed 10-35 parts per million. The maximum amount allowed in conventionally made wine is 350 parts per million.

REGENERATIVE AGRICULTURE: Regenerative agriculture sees the vineyard as part of an ecosystem. It is an evolving practice that looks to rebuild and restore nutrient cycles, generate soil, preserve living soil networks, and protect watersheds by minimizing disturbances of the land (no-till) and facilitating the increase of organic matter.

ORGANIC WINES

VINA ZORZAL GARNACHA (Navarro, Spain): Harvested by hand, this wine has exuberant red fruit tones kept in check by bright acidity. A perfect wine for grilled foods.

JEAN-PAUL BRUN L’ANCIEN BEAUJOLAIS (Beaujolais, France): This wine is made from 100% Gamay grapes, ranging from 40-60 years old. This is a bright, light, fruity delicious wine with very pure fruit. It is ready to drink now, but will continue to improve for three to five years.

SAINT PREFERT COTES DU RHONE CLOS BEATUS ILLE (Rhone, France): Isabel Ferrando purchased Domaine Saint-Prefert from the Serre family in 2003. Ferrando has always farmed organically and starting in 2019, the wines have been managed following biodynamic methods. Wine Advocate describes this win as “full bodied, supple, and round in the mouth, with silky tannins on the licorice, rosemary, and bay leaf inflected finish.” There is also a very limited amount of the outstanding Saint Prefert Chateneuf-du-Pape available.

MARY TAYLOR SICILIA BIANCO (CLARA SALA) Sicily, Italy: Mary Taylor Wines’ mission is to work with individual growers who produce exceptional, regionally distinctive wines. All the growers Mary works with farm responsibly. Sicilia Bianco is owned by sisters Clara and Anna Maria Sala, and the wine is 100% Grillo. A refreshingly delicious wine with bursts of tropical citrus fruit, delicate hints of grilled peach, and a spritz of salty beach. Pairs perfectly with seafood.

CHATEAU DE PIBARNON BANDOL (Provence, France): Chateau de Pibarnon is not a typical style of rosé. It is a complex wine with gorgeous fruit and beautiful minerality. It is rich, silky and refreshing. This is consistently a top-rated rosé that has the ability to age.

BIODYNAMIC WINES

MONTESECONDO SANGIOVESE TOSCANA IGT (Tuscany, Italy): This very pretty wine, 100% Sangiovese, emphasizes freshness and vivacity. Crushed red berries, spice, orange peel, and floral notes, give this medium-weight translucent Sangiovese tons of character and complexity.

CHATEAU MARIS MINERVOIS NATURAL SELECTION (Languedoc-Roussillon, France): Chateau Maris is one of the top five environmentally friendly wineries in the world. The Natural Selection is a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache. This is a medium-bodied, spicy wine with a rich palate of dark fruits, pepper, herbs. It is rich, round, and delicious. Pair this wine with ribs, filet, roasted vegetables, and fresh goat cheese.

JULIEN BROCARD CHABLIS VIGNE DE LA BOISSONNEUSE (Burgundy, France): The 2018 Chablis de la Boissoneuse is gracious and impeccably balanced. Lemon, confit, dried flowers, mint, and chamomile all grace this wonderfully inviting Chablis.

NATURAL BHILAR TINTO (Rioja Alavesa, Spain): A bit shy and serious, but this vintage has an extra touch of nuance, complexity, and freshness that comes through as serious and elegant while remaining easy to drink. The palate is juicy and medium-bodied, the tannins chalky and very fine.

MONTINORE ESTATE L’ORANGE (Willamette, Ore.): This is a blend of 80% Pinot Gris and 20% Muscat Ottonel. The Pinot Gris gives the wine its beautiful color, fruit and texture, while the Muscat provides beautiful aromatics.

Other natural wines: Terres Dorees, Julien Brocard, Candialle Chianti, La Bicicleta Rioja, Montinore, Montesecondo.

Day wines: Deep Blue Pinot Noir, Thee And Thou.

Of course, this just a partial list of the many responsibly produced wines that are available. There are wines in all price ranges and colors, from all over the world. Many of the wines are marked organic or biodynamic on the label, or there might be a symbol on the back label stating the certification of the wine.

Enjoy!

Please drink responsibly.

Kathleen Todaro

Kathy Todaro, who writes the wine column, grew up in Stone Harbor. She has been the wine expert at Fred’s Avalon Liquors for more than 20 years. She resides in Medford and Avalon with her husband and two children.

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