The Wines of Piedmont: Buono!

In the northwest corner of Italy, at the foot of the Alps, lies the wine region of Piedmont (also known as Piemonte).

Piedmont is one of Italy’s most acclaimed growing regions, home to the world-famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines. Of course, there are many other great red wines produced in Piedmont that are more accessible than Barolo and Barbaresco, including Barbera, Dolcetto, Langhe Nebbiolo, among others. These reds are more affordable and available, and most are ready to drink in their youth. We can’t overlook the white wines of Piedmont, which are not as recognized as the reds but offer great white-wine drinking pleasure.

At one time, Piedmont was a sleepy area without a lot of visitors. Now, its fine wine and excellent cuisine attract visitors from around the world.

Barolo is the most recognized varietal coming from this region. In the past, Barolo was big, rustic, tough and tannic. Starting in the 1980s and ’90s, Barolo became much more harmonious. The Nebbiolo grape still produces wines that are full-bodied and tannic but much more pleasurable. Barolo has had a long string of outstanding vintages, including 2016.

Try:

2016 MARZIANO ABBONA BAROLO: The Abbona family has been cultivating its vineyards since 1920. This beautiful Barolo scored 93 points from James Suckling: “Wonderfully elegant, a firm silky red with tight fine tannins that have some strength, consistently overstated. This is a good value for Barolo.”

2016 ANDREA OBERTO BAROLO: To quote Vinous, “This is a fleshy succulent wine that makes it a good choice for drinking now and over the next decade. Sweet red cherry, kirsch, cinnamon, mint and rose petal all flesh out in the glass, while soft, silky tannins give this forward Barolo plenty of near and medium-term appeal.”

2016 ELVIO COGNO BAROLO RAVERA: Ravera refers to the cru vineyards where the grapes are sourced. Cogno has done a tremendous job highlighting the superb quality that can be achieved in this area. This wine received very high scores from the media. In giving it 97 points, Wine Spectator describes “a compact and dense wine with flavors of red cherry, strawberry, iron, tobacco and tar, vivid acidity and beefy tannins, with terrific length.” This wine needs some time to age. Best in 2023-45.

Barbaresco is the next highly acclaimed area of Piedmont. Barberesco is only 10 miles from Barolo and its wines also are made from the Nebbiolo grape. Barberesco wines are generally less tannic and more approachable in their youth than Barolo. There is a minimum aging of two years, and four years of aging for Reservas.

Try:

2017 ALBINO ROCCA BARBARESCO OVELLO LORETO: This is a stunning, full-bodied, and polished wine, with savory flavors of cherry, raspberry, white pepper, and star anise. Best to drink 2023-30.

Barbera is the most planted varietal in Piedmont, high in natural acidity and low in tannin. Barbera is planted all over Italy, but the best comes from Piedmont. Barbera can be made in a wide variety of styles from light and fruity, to full-bodied wines that need time to age.

Try:

2018 ODDERO BARBERA D’ALBA: Oddero is a historic name among Barolo producers, making amazing Barolo but also Barbera. Says The Wine Advocate: “Impressive from the first sip thanks to its richness, smoothness, and seamless nature. Flavors of blackberry, spice, and tar. Pair with white meat, pasta, and pizza.”

Working our way down in terms of tannin and acidity is Dolcetto. Generally light and fruity, often compared to Beaujolais. Dolcetto is an everyday, easy-drinking wine that typically should be consumed within 5 years. It pairs nicely with grilled or roasted chicken, salmon, pasta with mushrooms, pizza, burgers and ribs.

Try:

MARZIANO ABBONA DOGLIANI DOLCETTO SAN LUIGI: Dogliani is an area in the heart of Dolcetto considered the best site to grow Dolcetto. Says Vinous Media: “Plump, juicy, and full of character. What a delicious wine it is!”

The white wines of Piedmont are not nearly as well recognized as the reds, but there are some very fine examples of dry and sweet whites. Arneis wines are typically dry with long, flavorful finish. The best Arneis are made in the sandy soils of the Roero region.

Try:

2019 DAMILANO ARNEIS: Damilano is one of the oldest wineries in Barolo, dating back to 1890. This is a dry wine that is delicate, fresh and fruity, with flavors of white grapefruit, citrus, and passion fruit. Pair it with light appetizers, fish, and white meats.

2019 VIETTI ROERO ARNEIS: Pale yellow with aromas of fresh florals, citrus, and melon. An elegant, medium-bodied wine with crisp acidity, good complexity, and a lingering finish.

Another excellent white wine from Piedmont is Gavi. Gavi is a small town in the southern part of Piedmont, and Gavi is considered one of the top-ranking white wines in Italy. Made from the indigenous Cortese grape, most Gavis are bone dry, light, flinty, and crisp. They can also be made in a more complex and concentrated style.

Try:

STEFANO MASSONE GAVI MASERA: This Gavi is made from a single vineyard, Masera. This is a consistently delicious wine year after year. It is full of flavors of crisp pears and apples, with a lovely, lingering finish. A great value! Pair with shellfish, pasta, lean fish, white meat, or use as an aperitif.

LA SCOLCA GAVI DI GAVI BLACK LABEL: La Scolca makes Gavi with a black label and white label. The black label signifies the grapes come from the area of Gavi that is the oldest and considered the best site for making Gavi. The black label Gavi is full-bodied, very dry, with bright fresh acidity. There are flavors of apple, pear, flint, and almond. The finish is very balanced and lingering.

And finally, the sweet white wine from Piedmont, Moscato d’Asti. Moscato is made from the Muscat grape, one of the oldest grapes in the world. Moscato is made throughout the world, but the most popular is from the Piedmont region. Moscato varies in sweetness: some are still, some sparkling, and some made in a frizzante style, which means it has light bubbles. The Moscatos from Piedmont have very clean acidity, which helps to balance the sweetness. They are light-bodied and low in alcohol. Moscato is extremely food-friendly and goes with a large number of foods. They pair perfectly with Asian food as well as seafood, chicken, fish, vegetables, and barbecue pork. This is a perfect summer sipping wine.

Try:

VIETTI MOSCATO D’ASTI CASINETTA: Only the best Muscat grapes are used in the Casinetta bottling. This is a semi-sweet, slightly frizzant wine. It has intense aromas of peaches, rose petal, and ginger. This wine has good complexity and balance. It finishes with fresh apricot. Pairs well as an aperitif, pan Asian cuisine, and lobster, as well as fruit-based and creamy desserts and blue cheese.

LA SPINETTA BRICCO QUAGLIA MOSCATO D’ASTI: This sparkling Moscato has a great balance of sweetness and acidity. It has a delicately sweet fresh palate with flavors of apple, apricot, and peach. This wine is sustainably farmed, without the use of herbicides or pesticides.

Piedmont makes such a great array of wines, from the big and bold to the light and sweet. They can be matched to a great number of fine foods, or just sipped on a beautiful summer day.

Enjoy!

Please drink responsibly.