Spanish Wines: Mucho Diversity & Value

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Spain is the third-largest producer of wine. There are more acres planted with vines in Spain than anywhere else in the world. Because Spain is a peninsula, the wine regions vary greatly, with very different climates between all the regions. The northwestern part of the country is influenced by cool ocean breezes. The southern part is arid with high temperatures and winds. The western part of Spain is influenced by the Mediterranean, with warm temperatures and cooling breezes. All these different climates account for the many styles of wine in Spain.

Some of the wines Spain produces are among the best in the world, and there are also a great number of exceptional wine values.

The most popular of all the wine regions is Rioja. The wonderful thing about Rioja is that it ages its wines for you. The aging of the wine is indicated on the label. Young wines are referred to as simply Rioja or Tinto. Crianza on the label refers to wines aged two years with at least one year in oak. Reserva are wines aged three years with at least one in oak. Gran Reserva are wines that are aged two years in oak and two years in the bottle.

While the main grape varietal used in Rioja is Tempranillo, there are a limited number of other varietals permitted in the wines which include Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo.

Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE) is one of the most renowned and historic bodegas in Spain. It was founded in 1879 by the Real brothers, Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asúa. CVNE has been one of Rioja’s most reliable sources for high-quality wines. CVNE, more commonly referred to as Cune (pronounced COO-nay), has a label called Imperial. Imperial releases only Reserva and Gran Reserva wine within exceptional vintages. Forty years after the original winery, CVNE expanded into the Alavesa region and created a separate facility called Viña Real. While CVNE is committed to traditional winemaking, Viña Real demonstrates a forward-thinking philosophy and modern technology.

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CVNE CUNE RIOJA CRIANZA 2016: This is a consistently good wine and good wine value. This wine has pretty blueberry, plum, licorice, and smoke flavors with good density and light tannins. Very elegant in the mouth, yet lively, with some spice and very balanced acidity.

CVNE IMPERIAL RIOJA RESERVA 2015: This wine is 85% Tempranillo, sourced from the best grapes in the Rioja Alta vineyards. Wine Spectator reports that “this balanced red shows muscle without the loss of grace. Tannins in a silky texture with fresh acidity.”

Some of the most highly rated and most expensive wines of Spain come from the region of Ribera del Duero. This region is similar to Rioja in that they both use a majority of Tempranillo in their wines, and the amount of aging is also indicated on the label. The wines of Ribera del Duero are typically more opulent and concentrated than Rioja. The following is one of my favorite more affordable wines of this region.

ANTIDOTO CEPAS VIEJAS: This wine comes from the far eastern part of the region called Soria, which has a slightly higher elevation. This wine is unfined and unfiltered. The winery is practicing organic. “The 2018 Antidoto has some resemblances with a Northern Rhône Syrah,” reports The Wine Advocate. “It has hints of smoked bacon and flowers, juicy and plummy, ripe without excess, and quite showy, balanced and round with a long dry finish.”

The following are outstanding values from Spain.

BODEGAS BHILAR TINTO RIOJA: Bodegas Bhilar is located in Elvillar, Rioja. The winery is run by the husband-and-wife team of David Sampedro Gil and Melanie Hickman. The vines are located in a high altitude with a cool climate. Gil began farming biodynamically in 1999. is wines have wonderful elegance and freshness. The tinto is bold and intense with dark fruit evolving into blueberry, strawberry, cherry, and black pepper.

QUINTA MILU LA BICICLETA: “The Flying Bicycle” is a modern-style Rioja. It is an amazingly fresh wine made from Tempranillo and a bit of Garnacha, a bright and juicy versatile wine, so easy to drink. Perfect for summer quaffing! It works well with light dishes. Certified organic.

CELLERS CAN BLAU: A big, ripe, round red from Monstant with crisp acidity and juicy flavors. Pair with pasta, veggies, mushrooms or grilled meats.

BODEGAS VOLVER SINGLE VINEYARD: The wines in the portfolio of Volver are all outstanding values! This one, from La Mancha, is my favorite Volver to date. It is full-flavored, with ripe plum, blackberries, cocoa, and sweet spice. It is fruity and fresh in a more modern style. Pair with beef, lamb, veal, and poultry. Drink now until 2026.

DOMINIO DE EQUREN PROTOCOLO TINTO: This wine from Tierra de Castilla is grown sustainably and dry farmed, has lots of bright berry fruit, and hints of chocolate. Pair with light fare, or great for making sangria.

The wines of Spain have so much diversity. There are more outstanding values than any other wine region. They also produce many of the top wines in the world. Spain has had some great consecutive vintages, so it is a great time to be drinking the wines from Spain!

Welcome back to the beach!

Please drink responsibly!

Kathleen Todaro

Kathy Todaro, who writes the wine column, grew up in Stone Harbor. She has been the wine expert at Fred’s Avalon Liquors for more than 20 years. She resides in Medford and Avalon with her husband and two children.

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