The Grape State of Oregon

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May is Oregon wine month. There are always special activities and promotional events such as virtual tastings, webinars and classes throughout the month. Oregon has had a long string of outstanding vintages, and the events of May enable the state to showcase all of its outstanding wines.

Although most wine drinkers associate Oregon with pinot noir, there are many other varietals being made there, and they are definitely worth checking out. Many of the chardonnays being produced are world class. The pinot gris wines have certainly increased in quality. I love the gamay wines that I have tried, and there are some delicious Syrahs, sauvignon blanc, Riesling, and more obscure wines like trousseau.

Oregon does not have a long history of wine making. There were some vines planted in the 1800s, but everything basically shut down during prohibition. Richard Sommer started Oregon’s first winery post-prohibition in 1961. Around the same time, David Lett, Charles Coury and Dick Erath moved their families to the Willamette Valley, and planted the first pinot noir and small amounts of pinot gris, chardonnay, and Riesling.

Lett planted 3,000 cuttings that he brought with him from the University of California-Davis and select growers. These were the first pinot noir, and chardonnay plantings in Oregon, and the first pinot gris plantings in America.

In 1966, Lett and his wife Diana founded The Eyrie Vineyards, based in Dundee Hills. Eyrie had a huge part of the quick rise to success of Oregon wines. In 1979, an Eyrie pinot noir placed in the top 10 of a French wine competition. It was time for people to notice the world-class wines being made in Oregon.

Today, the Letts’ son Jason has taken over as winemaker and vineyard manager at Eyrie. He follows the same philosophy as his father, which is to interfere as little as possible with the winemaking process.

Their vineyards have never had herbicides, pesticides, or fungicides. The wines are hand harvested; there is no irrigation, tillage, or finishing. All five of Eyrie estate vineyards are organic. They feel the natural approach makes the best wine.

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2018 EYRIE VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS: The Wine Advocate reports that “the 2018 Pinot gris has a nose of citrus, almonds, hay and earth. The palate is round, bright and fresh with delicate gently honeyed flavors lingering on the finish.”

2017 EYRIE VINEYARD TROUSSEAU: Trousseau is an ancient grape variety originating in France’s Jura region. Eyrie’s trousseau grapes were planted in 2012. This is a very bright red with aromas of berries and spice. The acidity and smoothness are in perfect balance. A soft, super fresh, juicy wine, with alcohol below 12%.

2017 EYRIE VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR SISTERS VINEYARDS: Named for the three pinot sisters – noir, blanc and gris – this is the most delicate and floral of all the single vineyards. Certified biodynamic. From Vinous: “Brilliant garnet color, mineral and spice. Displays fine clarity to the sappy appealing sweet raspberry and cherry flavors. Finish is very long and supple, with harmonious tannins and emphatic, floral tinged persistence.

The Pike Road winery is located outside the town of Yamhill, on the western edge of the Willamette Valley. The warm days and cool evenings are perfect for ripening pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris. Owned by the Campbell family, who planted their first 20 acres of vines in 1974. Their original winery is Elk Cove. Pike Road was started in 2016, with the goal to create affordable quality wines made from Willamette Valley. It has definitely already met this goal.

2020 PIKE ROAD PINOT GRIS: Delicate, fruit forward, and vibrant fresh and juicy, perfect summer white.

Pike Road is committed to releasing only wine free of smoke effect that passed rigorous tests in multiple laboratories.

2019 PIKE ROAD CHARDONNAY: A fresh fruity wine with flavors of apple, pear and honey and some tropic pineapple notes. This is a crisp, fruit-driven style with a touch of oak, concentrated fruit, and a bright profile.

2018 PIKE ROAD PINOT NOIR: This is a beautiful blend of multiple vineyards. It has a deep ruby color soft cherry nose with flavors of black fruit, currants and spice. This is a great value for Oregon pinot noir.

Big Table Farm is a collaborative effort of winemaker Brian Marcy and artist/farmer Clare Carver. They moved to the Willamette Valley from the Napa Valley, where Marcy had worked with some of California’s most esteemed properties and winemakers such as Turley, Neyers, Blankiet and Marcassin.

2018 BIG TABLE FARM WILD BEE CHARDONNAY: This chardonnay is made from a blend of seven chardonnay sites. A delicious chardonnay with floral and stone fruit, it is mouth-filling yet still crisp, complex yet easy to love. A delicious finish that lingers.

2020 BIG TABLE FARM LAUGHING PIG ROSÉ: A limited wine that I’m hoping to be able to have for the summer. It is unfined, unfiltered and fermented dry. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, orange peel and chamomile tea, all balanced with rich mouth feel. This is a dry, complex rosé that complements lots of different food.

2018 BIG TABLE FARM PINOT NOIR: Light bright ruby color. Deeply perfumed aromas of spice accented by blue and red fruit, fine clarity and energetic lift.

Foris wine comes from 135 acres of estate vineyards in southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley. Started in 1986 by Ted Gerber, Foris features meticulously crafted and amazingly affordable wines.

2019 FORIS VINEYARDS MOSCATO: Wildly aromatic with an abundance of white peach, pear, and honeysuckle. Sweet and delicious, naturally low in alcohol. Very light and refreshing. Perfect as an aperitif with fresh fruit or for brunch.

2019 FORIS VINEYARDS PINOT GRIS: Aromatics of white peach and flowers, a bright core of acidity layered with peach, nectarine, apricot, and star fruit.

2018 FORIS ROGUE VALLEY ESTATE PINOT NOIR: The estate pinot noir is medium-bodied with flavors of plum, fresh herbs, berry, mocha and white pepper. A great value!

There are so many fantastic small wineries in Oregon, most using very sustainable methods to produce outstanding wines. I will delve further into Oregon wineries in the next issue.

Please drink responsibly!

Kathleen Todaro

Kathy Todaro, who writes the wine column, grew up in Stone Harbor. She has been the wine expert at Fred’s Avalon Liquors for more than 20 years. She resides in Medford and Avalon with her husband and two children.

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