The Fine Wines of Washington
The wines from the state of Washington are often overlooked by buyers, but they shouldn’t be.
Washington is the second-largest wine-growing region in the United States. Sixty-thousand acres are planted to vines. There are more than 17 million cases produced yearly. There are 19 unique wine-growing areas called AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). In the last 40 years, the number of wineries in the state has gone from 20 to more than 1,000. There are 80 varietals planted in this area, but Cabernet Sauvignon is king.
One area making outstanding cabernets as well as other reds is the Red Mountain AVA. The combination of sandy soil, high winds, low precipitation, and intense temperature changes from day to night make this an ideal area to grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. The daytime temperatures average 90 degrees and the nighttime average is below 50. The cool temperatures help to retain acidity levels and allow for great balance and structure in the wines.
Hedges Family Estate sits in the heart of the Red Mountain district. The Hedges winery was started by Tom Hedges, a native of Washington who married Annie-Marie Liegeois, from Champagne, France.
In 1989, they purchased 50 acres on Red Mountain and planted 40 acres of Bordeaux varietals.
In 2005, their son Christophe was made director of national sales, and later general manager.
Their daughter, Sarah Hedges Goedhart, joined the winery full time in 2006. Today, she is the winemaker making not only the Hedges wines, but also her own wines. In 2008, the winery converted to biodynamic farming. It was the first Demeter-certified winery in Washington.
HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
The 2018 Cabernet is a very pretty wine with lots of dark fruits, cloves, cinnamon, and cocoa aromas followed by flavors of rich fruit, spice, blackberry, cinnamon with a hint of chocolate. This wine is wonderful to drink now but will age for 10 years, and continue to drink well for 15-20 years.
HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE RED MOUNTAIN
This is a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, and Petit Verdot. Winemaker notes, “cassis, blackberry, dark chocolate, leather, and a hint of cloves and hazelnuts. Full and rounded palate with bright intense fruit and a lush cocoa spicy finish. Classic Hedges style with a modern touch. This wine is very enjoyable now and will age for years to come.
Hedges Family Estate also has a CMS level of wines produced in Columbia Valley that are outstanding values.
CMS RED BLEND
A delicious wine with flavors of blackberry, cherry, and raspberry, spice, and a bit of cocoa. A very soft and upfront wine made from 76% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Syrah.
CMS SAUVIGNON BLANC
The 2019 has aromas of light citrus, peach, and apple. This is a refreshing wine that has plenty of flavor. This is a perfect white to pair with light meals.
CMS CHARDONNAY
A beautiful Chardonnay with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc and Marsanne. It has a fresh mineral component, fresh citrus and apple flavors, with touches of butter, blood orange, and spice.
Also in the Columbia Valley is the Quilceda Creek winery, established in 1979 and producing ultra-premium wines that have received the rare 100-point reviews.
QUILCEDA CREEK CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Beautiful crème de cassis, graphite, and spice box notes all flow to a full-bodied, soft, elegant wine that has beautiful tannins. It shows the more upfront charming style of the vintage.
The LUKE winery is located in the Columbia Valley’s Wahluke Slope AVA. This area is just starting to receive attention for its wines. It has one of the warmest and driest climates in Washington, perfect for producing excellent wines! LUKE takes its name from Wahluke, the Native American word for watering place.
LUKE MERLOT
A blend of 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Malbec. Similar to other great Washington Merlots, it has dark red fruit, rounded tannins, and an opulent smooth finish. Fresh flavors of plums, cherry, and blackberry.
LUKE CABERNET SAUVIGNON
This offers aromas dominated by marionberry and dark chocolate, accented accented by hints of mint and molasses. Supple, focused, and expressive. It’s 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 2% Petite Verdot, 1% Malbec.
Novelty Hill, also in the Columbia Valley, is a small independent winery crafting limited quantities of elegant wines.
NOVELTY HILL MERLOT
The 2019 Merlot is ripe and aromatic with notes of wild raspberry currants and a hint of cocoa fill the glass gaining focus and concentration on the palate. This is a very pretty, well-balanced wine perfect for pairing with barbecued and grilled meats and vegetables.
NOVELTY HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Rich but not weighty, with elegantly structured black cherry fruit, mocha java and spice flavors that glide on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2028.
House of Smith, founded by Charles Smith, has a bevy of wineries under his domain including K Vintners, Sixto, Substance, Vino, and Golden West. His first winery opened in 2001, it was for his K Vintners brands, which were mostly single vineyard Syrahs.
K VINTNERS ART DEN HUED VIOGNIER (Yakima Valley)
Washington makes a bevy of terrific Viognier, and one of the best is the 2019 Viognier Art Den Hued Vineyard. Revealing a light golden hue as well as a classic nose of white peach, orange blossom, and white flowers, and a touch of honeyed almonds. It hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, nicely integrated acidity, and plenty of classic Viognier richness and complexity.
SUBSTANCE CS CABERNET SAUVIGNON (Columbia Valley)
Blackberry, plum, and blue fruit alongside leafy herb and violet notes. Full-bodied, elegant, and focused. Beautifully balanced, fruit-forward style and a wonderful finish.
It’s a great time to try some of these beautiful Washington wines. And the future is looking very bright. According to the Charles Smith website, 2020 vintage might be the best vintage in Washington history due to an incredible growing season that was long and temperate, allowing the fruit to ripen evenly. The wines are focused, rich, complex, and lively. The reds are restrained and elegant, yet powerful with incredible tension and balance. And the white and rosé wines are wonderfully rich on the palate but balanced with enough acid to make the wines complete. It’s so exciting to have great wines to look forward to trying!
Please drink responsibly.
