Italy’s Legendary Brunellos
Brunello di Montalcino is famous for its bold and long-lived red wines. It is one of the most sought-after wines, not just in Italy but all over the world.
Brunello is made in the vineyards in the Montalcino region, about 70 miles south of Florence.
Many wine critics claim that the 2015 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino is one of the top eight to 10 vintages ever made.
The wines have very rich, juicy fruit, with ripe flavors and acidity, and have great intensity and depth.
The Wine Advocate’s Monica Lerner traveled to Italy to report on the vintage. “What impresses most about the 2015 is the consistently high quality delivered across the board,” she wrote. “These wines are united by the energy, exuberance, and radiance that comes naturally to a beautiful warm and sunny vintage like ’15.”
I had planned a trip to Tuscany in March to visit some of the Brunello estates. Unfortunately, those plans were canceled, but I did have the opportunity to try many of the 2015s at a show in New York in January. There were many beautiful wines; some were ready to drink, while others definitely needed more time.
Here are some of the highlights of the show:
IL POGGIONE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015 – The ’15 Il Poggione is a beautiful wine with lots of black cherry fruit, warm spice, and velvety tannins. It is a very concentrated wine with a long finish.
Il POGGIONE ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2018 – This wine is also made from Sangiovese grapes sourced from the winery’s younger vines. It is a delicious, younger, fresher, more accessible wine than the Brunello.
Il Poggione is one of the older Brunello estates. It was started at the end of the 19th century when Lavinio Franceschi visited the area around Montalcino and decided to buy land. Franceschi selected new Sangiovese clones for higher quality and planted them in the most suitable areas. He had a modern business approach but still retained the traditional ways of farming. More than a century later, the fifth generation continues to produce outstanding wines in the same manner.
CAPARZO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015 – This wine is crafted in a lighter style, it has pretty aromas of cherry, raspberry, tobacco, and pepper. It is supple and juicy with flavors of red berries, herbs, spice, and cherry. Caparzo Brunello is consistently a great value.
CAPARZO ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2018 – This is a great alternative for those who love Sangiovese but want a wine that is lighter and more approachable as well as affordable.
These great Tuscan wines are produced by Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini. Elizabetta was married at 20 to Paolo Angelini. His family owned the largest pharmaceutical company in Italy. After Elisabetta’s husband died, she decided to sell her share of the company in 1998 and begin her journey learning about wine, making wine, and buying vineyards.
In 1997, Elisabetta bought the Borgo Scopeto estate in the Chianti Classico region, and bought the Caparzo winery a couple of years later. In 2002, she purchased the Altesino estate, one of the most famous Brunello properties in Montalcino. The Caparzo estate is a large winery with lots of vineyards. The wines are made in a more traditional way, using large barrels. Along with her children, Elisabetta has combined tradition with innovation to create high quality wines from all her estates.
UCCELLIERA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015 – This is a fabulous Brunello, with tons of juicy red and dark fruits. Vinous Media wine critic Eric Guido wrote that it has “a soft envelope expression displaying ripe red and black fruits as a mix of spices, saline-minerals, and zesty acids salivate the senses.”
UCCELLIERA ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2018 – Another stunning Rosso, with jammy red fruit, warm spice, and brilliant acidity. This wine is a declassified Brunello.
VOLIERO BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018 – A beautiful Brunello with ripe red and blackberry flavors, along with spice, good acids and mineral.
All of these wine offerings are owned and made by Andrea Cortonesi. Cortonesi learned his trade as cellar master for the famous Ciacci Piccolomini estate. Uccelliera was once part of the Ciacci estate, which Cortonesi bought in 1986. Cortonesi worked tirelessly to produce a world-class wine. His production of Uccelliera sold out quickly each year. Because of Cortonesi’s limited supply of wine, he searched out other grape sources to make wine for his restaurant. He made the Voliera Brunello as a second label. This wine became very popular and in demand. Lucky for us, Andrea started selling this wonderful Brunello as well.
This is just a small glimpse of the many Brunello wines that are now available. They are wonderful wines for special occasions, and make great gifts for collectors. The high acidity of Brunello makes it a great pairing for food, especially grilled meats and game. These wines age well for at least 10 years, some for even longer. The Rosso di Montalcinos are great for everyday drinking, and the 2018s are bright with forward fruit, very drinkable, and compatible with a wide range of foods including sausages, beef, roasted chicken, tomato sauce and rich pasta dishes.
Enjoy!
Please drink responsibly.
